Missing that one 10mm socket is the difference between a successful pull and a wasted trip.
I've watched people show up to the yard with a single adjustable wrench and absolute confidence. Three hours later they're still trying to remove a caliper bolt that a proper 14mm would have handled in thirty seconds. Don't be that person. This list is organized by experience level — start with the Starter Kit if you're new, add from the Pro section when you know what you're pulling.
⚠️ Yard Safety Rules — Read Before You Pull
- Closed-toe shoes required. Steel-toed boots are ideal. Flip-flops are how you lose a toe to a falling door panel.
- Watch for sharp edges. Cut sheet metal, broken glass, and exposed battery terminals are everywhere. Leather gloves are non-negotiable.
- Don't go under unsupported vehicles. Yard cars are not on proper jack stands. Never crawl under anything without checking stability first.
- No open flames near the fuel system. Old cars can have leaky fuel lines. Leave the lighter in the truck.
What tools do you need at a junkyard? (The short answer)
For most pulls, you need: a 3/8" drive ratchet with metric and SAE sockets (8mm–19mm), a breaker bar, two flathead screwdrivers (one large, one small), needle-nose pliers, a trim panel removal tool, and a flashlight. That covers 80% of parts you'll ever pull.
The Starter Kit — what to bring every time
- 3/8" drive ratchet + metric socket set (8–19mm) — This is the single most-used tool at any u-pull yard. Bring the full set; you won't always know what size the bolt is until you're looking at it.
- 1/2" drive breaker bar — For anything that's been on the car since the factory. Rusted lug nuts, suspension bolts, exhaust bolts. A 3/8" ratchet will round them; a breaker bar will break them loose.
- Flathead screwdrivers (large + small) — Prying, popping clips, battery terminal removal. Bring both sizes.
- Phillips screwdrivers (#1 and #2) — Interior trim, underhood covers, battery hold-downs.
- Needle-nose pliers — Hose clamps, wire connectors, small retaining clips in tight spaces.
- Trim panel removal tool (plastic pry) — $4 at any auto parts store. Saves door panels and dashboards from scratches. Worth it.
- Bright flashlight or headlamp — You'll be looking inside dark wheel wells, under dashes, and behind engine bays. Your phone flashlight won't cut it. A headlamp keeps both hands free.
- Leather work gloves — Sheet metal edges and dried-up rubber seals will cut you. Wear them from the moment you get out of the car.
Pro-Puller Upgrades — when you're serious about the yard
- Cordless impact wrench (Milwaukee M18 or DeWalt 20V) — Game-changer. Lug nuts, caliper bolts, strut bolts — all come off in seconds. The M18 Mid-Torque is the sweet spot for yard work: enough power without destroying threads.
- Penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster) — Spray it on stubborn fasteners, wait 5 minutes, pull. Kroil is worth the price; it genuinely outperforms generic penetrating oil on serious rust.
- Digital multimeter — For testing alternators, sensors, switches, and window motors before you pull them. Saves you from buying a bad part. Set it to DC voltage, probe both ends of the component.
- Pry bar set (18" + 30") — For separating body panels, popping CV axles, leveraging stuck rotors. The long bar gives mechanical advantage that saves your back.
- Harmonic balancer puller kit — If you're pulling an engine or crank-related parts, you cannot do it without this. Rental is fine; buy if you do it regularly.
- Stubby ratchet + stubby screwdrivers — For tight spaces: under dashboards, behind firewalls, inside door panels. Full-length handles won't fit.
